Seks and the City: Notes from Copenhagen

Charms by Jesse Zuo

From art museums to thrift shops, here are all of my favourite things to see and do in the Danish capital 🇩🇰

Last week, I took a break from doomscrolling to fly to Copenhagen, with the hopes of salvaging the final days of summer. My expectations for the Nordic city were high. Friends had described its architecture as being like Amsterdam’s and its atmosphere similar to Berlin’s.

I stayed in the trendy neighbourhood of Vesterbro, home to many independent cafes, vintage boutiques, and the famous meatpacking district. With its industrial feel and effortlessly well-dressed residents, Vesterbro draws many parallels to East London. While walking past the bars and restaurants, I saw lots of carefully curated outfits, usually featuring low-rise jeans, slicked-back buns, and oversized blazers.

I spent most of my time wandering through art museums, cycling along the picturesque waterfront, and attempting to finally finish reading my novel (almost there!). The city didn't disappoint, and I knew I had to share my favourite spots. So, here are the best things to see and do in Copenhagen.

Galleries & Museums

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

I took a train from the city centre to Humlebaek to visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. Overlooking the sea and nestled in a sculpture park with works by artists like Alexander Calder and Henry Moore, Louisiana is a unique space, unlike any other art museum I've visited. It felt much more inviting and, in many ways, intimate. I was lucky enough to catch the end of the Louisiana Literature festival, which featured talks from authors like Sally Rooney and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie.

Inside, my favourite show was the Kaari Upson retrospective, a showcase of the late American artist's oeuvre. I was particularly drawn to her eerie sculptures inspired by found objects like old mattresses—so much so that I was lowkey tempted to touch them (I didn’t ofc). Another highlight was a room filled with contemporary works, where I saw the most amazing dreamlike painting by Peter Doig. Later, I queued for the Kusama installation twice (after a man ruined my shot the first time lol). I concluded the day with an ice cream on the grass while listening to a live music performance. Louisiana is an amazing museum; you could easily spend a whole day there, which is exactly what I did.

Copenhagen Contemporary

The best part of my trip was visiting Copenhagen Contemporary, which completely blew me away. I haven’t enjoyed an exhibition programme that much in a really long time. After a bus ride to the industrial space, I stashed my tote bag in a locker, and went straight upstairs to Aftershock by James Turrell.

I experienced the immersive installation as the artist intended: phone off, with my full concentration on the ambient coloured light. It was beautiful and felt very different from the Kusama installation at Louisiana. Both installations harness light in unique ways, but with entirely different effects. Turrell's feels meditative and even transcendent—it's clear he wants you to experience something beyond reality. Kusama's, in comparison, feels more playful and commercial.

Next, I went downstairs to see Emma Talbot's exhibition, Are You a Living Thing That Is Dying or a Dying Thing That Is Living? Through a mix of soft sculptures, hanging works, animation, and confessional handwritten texts in her paintings, she explores the transience of human existence. In a way, Talbot reminds me of Wangechi Mutu—they both have multidisciplinary approaches, explore similar themes, and use hybrid female forms in their work.

My last stop was Soft Robots, a futuristic group exhibition featuring 15 artists and artist duos who explore new technologies. From AI avatars to a deepfake of Pope Francis in a Balenciaga puffer, the show contemplates the many ways technology impacts our lives. It's definitely a must-see.

Eighteen Gallery

In the heart of the meatpacking district, I checked out a group show, Shape of a Minute, at Eighteen Gallery. It's part of the tastemaking V1 Gallery, which represents artists like Emma Kohlmann and Monica Kim Garza. I was particularly excited about this show because it featured works by some emerging artists I really like, including Natalia González Martin and Jesse Zuo, a New York-based artist I interviewed earlier this year. On view until September 27th, the exhibition focuses on the transitory and ethereal nature of fabric, which felt perfectly fitting as I entered the space through a long, sheer curtain. I loved the tiny details in the paintings—from glazed nails to the rumpled sheets of an unmade bed—that added dimension and texture to each piece. While you're in Copenhagen, you should also visit Etage Projects and Alice Folker Gallery.

Cafes & Restaurants

I can’t talk about cafes without mentioning Seks, which is featured in the title of this post. Known for its good vibes and equally good pastries, this cute brunch spot is located on the corner of a quiet street in Indre By. I hopped on a bike and headed over, where I ordered a chai latte and a strawberry pancake to have outside. Other cool cafes in the city are Hart and Apotek 57, both of which serve great matcha lattes.

Copenhagen has a restaurant for every mood. When you need something quick and easy, Ritta or Mr. Pho are great choices. For a more relaxed evening with a glass of red, Margo is the perfect spot. Of all the restaurants, Delphine was my favourite. Delphine is the place to go if you’re looking for a beautiful setting, small plates, and classic cocktails. Also, if you have room for dessert, definitely try their sorbet.

Music

I listened to a lot of Clairo during this trip, specifically her album Charm. Her mellow, soft-rock sound has become synonymous with the viral “performative male” archetype, which is honestly so funny. I saw her live at BST Hyde Park in July, and after the chaotic brat summer of 2024, this year has birthed a quieter, more relaxed Clairo summer.

I think “Sexy to Someone,” “Juna,” and “Add Up My Love” are my favourites from the album. I listened to them as I walked and cycled around the city, which was kind of therapeutic. I highly recommend.

An honorary mention goes to “Fame is a Gun” by Addison Rae, which is quickly becoming one of my favourite songs of the year.

Books

Have you ever had to resist the urge to enter a bookshop because you have a growing pile of unread books at home? It's an experience I relive way too often, and let me tell you, it's not for the weak. Copenhagen is rife with charming bookshops almost begging you to come in and browse their dusty first editions and hardback classics.

I'm proud to say I resisted temptation and focused on the novel I'm currently reading, and have been reading for quite some time, Bunny by Mona Awad. I finally pried my eyes away from TikTok long enough to read uninterrupted during the trip, and I'm now on the last chapter. Next up on my list is I Who Have Never Known Men by Jacqueline Harpman.

Thrifting

As some of you might know, I’ve spent the past year on a hunt for the perfect pair of blue jeans. I got a cute pair when I was in Seoul last winter, but they’re slightly too short. It’s sort of like the Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants meets Goldilocks, except I’m the only person wearing them and they don’t quite fit.

Anyway, I rifled through the racks of Copenhagen’s best thrift shops, including UFF Humana Second Hand and Prag, browsing what the city had to offer. I bought a cropped knitted top, a black miniskirt, and an off-white fleece, but alas no jeans. The search continues.

Final Notes

Travelling to Copenhagen reminded me just how important it is to take time off and recharge. Living in a big city can be intense at times, and it's easy to lose sight of what really matters.

I want to be more intentional with my downtime, scrolling less and exploring new places more. Cycling through the city and seeing art IRL was so refreshing, and I definitely recommend Copenhagen for your next city break <3 sometimes all you need is a change of scenery to get out of a rut and find some inspiration.

Until next time!

Seks and the City: Notes from Copenhagen

From art museums to thrift shops, here are all of my favourite things to see and do in the Danish capital 🇩🇰

Reflejo del Alma